how high is yours

[///BHRpowered]

well MTS, the car sits on the ground all the time anyway, I always go back and forth and what would be better for the winter. I would love to just put the car on jacks, and take the wheels off, deflat the tires and stack them up, but I have heard it is EXTREMELY bad to just leave the suspension hanging. the most it ever sits without any movement is about 4 months. Of course people also say that starting the engine, warming it, bringing it to operating temp and not driving is horrible and that I should just leave it off the entire time. If there is a day over 40 degrees or so I MIGHT, and I do mean only MIGHT take it out for a spin

[mts]

Do not hang it... just take up the weight so that the bearing do not form flat spots. Yes the car sits on the ground all the time.... but normally they move and therefore are actually sitting on the "oil wedge" between the bearings and races. Longest mine sits is a couple days at the airport...

[///BHRpowered]

and how would you recommend doing this, jacking it up only half way?

[mts]

Just enough to take the weight off the bearings somewhat...plus this takes the weight off the tires also...

[mohamedeladawy@hotmail.com]

longest mine ever sat was 3 monhts waiting for a tensioner...god that was torture...

[///BHRpowered]

the tires are my only real concern, after 4 months I had mild, and I do mean mild flat spotting that 10 miles or so of driving takes right out.

 

as oppose to say the stock goodyears I had on my old jeep, when the car sat for 3 weeks while I ordered rotors and a waterpump and didn't have the time to fix it, those got crazy flatspotting.

 

Actually last year I had the idea to get some of those wheel dollys, with the 2 rollers to pick the car up? leaving the car in neutral and attaching a small motor, like leaving the car on a mini dyno for 30 minutes or so a day

[mohamedeladawy@hotmail.com]

why dont u just buy some old alloys and put them on the car instead while having the actual wheels storaged.

[///BHRpowered]

could, but that still doesn't address the wheel bearings. I could of course jack it half way up so the weight of the car is on the jacks, and only half the weight of the suspension is on the bearings, take the wheels off and have the rotors RESTING on the ground, but that would be ghetto

[mohamedeladawy@hotmail.com]

it would be in your garage...it cant be ghetto...thats just relative...

[ing-schu@online.no]

You do realize that long term sitting is VERY hard on wheel bearings...

 

MTS, don't put anymore Milly concerns into BHR's head, I think there is quite enough dementia already in there

 

His wheelbearings will live beyond his lifetime with his current yearly milage. They should last at least 300000 miles if regreased every 5 years/60000 miles or so. I'd be more concerned of rubber parts, oilstarved engine/drivetrain and caliper seizure on a sitting car.

[Miller Time]

You do realize that long term sitting is VERY hard on wheel bearings...

 

MTS, don't put anymore Milly concerns into BHR's head, I think there is quite enough dementia already in there

 

His wheelbearings will live beyond his lifetime with his current yearly milage. They should last at least 300000 miles if regreased every 5 years/60000 miles or so. I'd be more concerned of rubber parts, oilstarved engine/drivetrain and caliper seizure on a sitting car.

 

I've got 115,000 km give or take and have replaced 3 out of 4 wheel bearings. The first one went at 41,000 km. Also, I didn't think it was possible to grease modern wheel bearings.

 

 

[///BHRpowered]

I have actually spent most of my day researching this, flatspotting (see thread in gen. section) is my biggest issue, as for wheel bearings, the longest it sits at any time is 4 months, which compared to the 6 months to 6 years some years are stored, I believe I'm fine, I do always fill up the gas tank and put stablizer in even if its just for 3 weeks. while it is HIGHLY unlikely as I have never seen mice dropping in the garage in decades, I do check just to make sure.

 

there were some things I found such as putting a tarp down, and cracking windows, and removing carpets, but since it is a well sealed concrete floor, and since its climate controlled, and since its in a bubble, those do not bother me.

 

I'm currently searching for some 6.5" high blocks. in my research I discovered it is far far worse to leave a car on jacks because of the damage done to relaxed suspension systems, especially if there is any moisture and the pistons rust. SOOOO I want to lift the car almost an inch, this will ensure that the weight of the car is on jacks/blocks and the suspension is nowhere near extended, that should take care of any would be wheel bearing issues (which I'v never had any of)

 

then of course there is the engine, I'm searching for one of these "smart battery" systems that has a trickle charge when needed and nothing when it is charged, but not bulky like I have now, something you can wire up in the car the same way an engine block heater would.

 

Alot of storage research seems to point to moisture being the biggest problem, condensation in brake lines, all over muldrew whatever, I do not see this as any issue for me, to give you an idea of how little moisture is even in the air, after 4 months not even the rotors (which would be the very first to develope signs) are perfectly clean.

 

As for starting the engine its horrible if you just start it, let it idle for 5 mins and shut it off or even drive it around the block. what I have been doing is apparently correct, whereas I start the engine, let it warm to operating temp, rev it and hold low revs only, and basically letting it run for 30 minutes or more.

 

The one thing I had no idea about, was guilty of, and promptly fixed was that you should never leave the parking brake on. I do need to have it adjusted, but apparently it can stick, and stick good, so I went out, released it, rocked the car a bit, reapplied, tried again, couldn't, took off, light forced rocked it gentle, so it didn't stick.

 

Caliper slide pins...I have never addressed this issue, I don't see it being one as I take excellent care of my brakes and grease the pins and flush the lines once a year to begin with.

 

because I do start the engine and run it well no less then once a month, I'm not going t osuffer from dry rot, HOWEVER, I have accepted that in the future I will have to replace every line in the car to begin with anyway, when that time comes I plan on spending the money upfront to replace every single crappy rubber hose with high temp, extremely long lasting full silicone hosing.

 

So, how much does it cost to replace wheel bearings any, mine are perfect, I'm I would notice horrible ride quality if they weren't, but always nice to know.

 

I wish it would make up its mind to either get warm or cold, while the garage is heated I do not have enough room to fully open the doors as I park close to the wall, I can pull out the M and open those, but not the same.

 

I need to do the tranny cooler, I want to move my speaker amp from the passenger side of the drivers side, and I really need to adjust the drivers side retro, I swear its loses more rotational alinement everyday.

 

I have decided that once there is some rain to rinse the streets I may take it out early just for fun, been along time since its run with chrisp winter air feeding the super chargers, maybe some time at the end of this week.

[ing-schu@online.no]

I've got 115,000 km give or take and have replaced 3 out of 4 wheel bearings. The first one went at 41,000 km. Also, I didn't think it was possible to grease modern wheel bearings.

 

Wow. What size and offset rims do you run? I 'm currently on 131000 km and would be greatly disappointed if a wheelbearing broke down on me before doubling that. I should say triple that km is what i expect. I run stock wheels though, which of course is what the wheelbearings are designed for.

[mohamedeladawy@hotmail.com]

I have actually spent most of my day researching this, flatspotting (see thread in gen. section) is my biggest issue, as for wheel bearings, the longest it sits at any time is 4 months, which compared to the 6 months to 6 years some years are stored, I believe I'm fine, I do always fill up the gas tank and put stablizer in even if its just for 3 weeks. while it is HIGHLY unlikely as I have never seen mice dropping in the garage in decades, I do check just to make sure.

 

there were some things I found such as putting a tarp down, and cracking windows, and removing carpets, but since it is a well sealed concrete floor, and since its climate controlled, and since its in a bubble, those do not bother me.

 

I'm currently searching for some 6.5" high blocks. in my research I discovered it is far far worse to leave a car on jacks because of the damage done to relaxed suspension systems, especially if there is any moisture and the pistons rust. SOOOO I want to lift the car almost an inch, this will ensure that the weight of the car is on jacks/blocks and the suspension is nowhere near extended, that should take care of any would be wheel bearing issues (which I'v never had any of)

 

then of course there is the engine, I'm searching for one of these "smart battery" systems that has a trickle charge when needed and nothing when it is charged, but not bulky like I have now, something you can wire up in the car the same way an engine block heater would.

 

Alot of storage research seems to point to moisture being the biggest problem, condensation in brake lines, all over muldrew whatever, I do not see this as any issue for me, to give you an idea of how little moisture is even in the air, after 4 months not even the rotors (which would be the very first to develope signs) are perfectly clean.

 

As for starting the engine its horrible if you just start it, let it idle for 5 mins and shut it off or even drive it around the block. what I have been doing is apparently correct, whereas I start the engine, let it warm to operating temp, rev it and hold low revs only, and basically letting it run for 30 minutes or more.

 

The one thing I had no idea about, was guilty of, and promptly fixed was that you should never leave the parking brake on. I do need to have it adjusted, but apparently it can stick, and stick good, so I went out, released it, rocked the car a bit, reapplied, tried again, couldn't, took off, light forced rocked it gentle, so it didn't stick.

 

Caliper slide pins...I have never addressed this issue, I don't see it being one as I take excellent care of my brakes and grease the pins and flush the lines once a year to begin with.

 

because I do start the engine and run it well no less then once a month, I'm not going t osuffer from dry rot, HOWEVER, I have accepted that in the future I will have to replace every line in the car to begin with anyway, when that time comes I plan on spending the money upfront to replace every single crappy rubber hose with high temp, extremely long lasting full silicone hosing.

 

So, how much does it cost to replace wheel bearings any, mine are perfect, I'm I would notice horrible ride quality if they weren't, but always nice to know.

 

I wish it would make up its mind to either get warm or cold, while the garage is heated I do not have enough room to fully open the doors as I park close to the wall, I can pull out the M and open those, but not the same.

 

I need to do the tranny cooler, I want to move my speaker amp from the passenger side of the drivers side, and I really need to adjust the drivers side retro, I swear its loses more rotational alinement everyday.

 

I have decided that once there is some rain to rinse the streets I may take it out early just for fun, been along time since its run with chrisp winter air feeding the super chargers, maybe some time at the end of this week.

 

interesting read.

 

[mts]

You do realize that long term sitting is VERY hard on wheel bearings...

 

MTS, don't put anymore Milly concerns into BHR's head, I think there is quite enough dementia already in there

 

His wheelbearings will live beyond his lifetime with his current yearly milage. They should last at least 300000 miles if regreased every 5 years/60000 miles or so. I'd be more concerned of rubber parts, oilstarved engine/drivetrain and caliper seizure on a sitting car.

 

I've got 115,000 km give or take and have replaced 3 out of 4 wheel bearings. The first one went at 41,000 km. Also, I didn't think it was possible to grease modern wheel bearings.

 

 

It isn't... BUT having the car rolling once in a while... allows the bearing to remain on their oil wedge, created by the grease between the bearings and the races. Whereas, if it sits for extended periods, this wedge moves out, and a bearing will flat spot from the weight of the vehicle. There is a lot of pressure that is created by the weight that is focused on that square 1/2 mm of contact area.

 

[///BHRpowered]

so again, how much does it cost to replace a wheel bearing

[mts]

At Mazda?

 

[///BHRpowered]

yes at mazda, for future reference

[ing-schu@online.no]

It isn't... BUT having the car rolling once in a while... allows the bearing to remain on their oil wedge, created by the grease between the bearings and the races. Whereas, if it sits for extended periods, this wedge moves out, and a bearing will flat spot from the weight of the vehicle. There is a lot of pressure that is created by the weight that is focused on that square 1/2 mm of contact area.

 

We all agree cars are designed to drive, but I do disagree with you on the wheelbearing concern. In fact roller or ball bearings in partly rotating machinery or parts are way more exposed to such problems, steering head bearings on motorcycles being a good example. They do a huge job on quite the same spot while driving a straight line or close to straight line, which is the situation when driving any speed above walking speed. Wheel bearings do in fact rotate all the way round, which is a far more sane strain. The surfaces are exposed to ALOT higher strains while driving, when like hitting a pothole, albeit while rotating which is good. But the surfaces are hardened, and the grease is designed to cope with the pressure without allowing metal contact at all. My experience is that wheelbearings often outlasts the car, on most cars with a healthy design and narrow production tolerances, like for instance Mazda. And of course rims and tires at least remotely close to standard dimensions. It is hardly the Mazda factorys fault the Millies are fitted with 18 inch rims and sub 40 or whatever profile tyres. Possibly even with wrong offset which adds the strains conciderably. Don't blame the wheelbearings, blame the ricers.

[///BHRpowered]

I agree with both, but I agree with xedos that the wheel bearing concern is greatly overstated, especially considering the force they endure from hitting a pothole, still half blocks wouldn't be a bad idea. Since I do infact have stock wheels that always helps

[ing-schu@online.no]

Sure, stock wheel dimension will take away lots of stains from the bearings while sitting in the garage.

[///BHRpowered]

how exactly would it have an effect? I mean if there in the middle the overall wheel size and weight shouldn't matter much

[mts]

It isn't... BUT having the car rolling once in a while... allows the bearing to remain on their oil wedge, created by the grease between the bearings and the races. Whereas, if it sits for extended periods, this wedge moves out, and a bearing will flat spot from the weight of the vehicle. There is a lot of pressure that is created by the weight that is focused on that square 1/2 mm of contact area.

 

We all agree cars are designed to drive, but I do disagree with you on the wheelbearing concern. In fact roller or ball bearings in partly rotating machinery or parts are way more exposed to such problems, steering head bearings on motorcycles being a good example. They do a huge job on quite the same spot while driving a straight line or close to straight line, which is the situation when driving any speed above walking speed. Wheel bearings do in fact rotate all the way round, which is a far more sane strain. The surfaces are exposed to ALOT higher strains while driving, when like hitting a pothole, albeit while rotating which is good. But the surfaces are hardened, and the grease is designed to cope with the pressure without allowing metal contact at all. My experience is that wheelbearings often outlasts the car, on most cars with a healthy design and narrow production tolerances, like for instance Mazda. And of course rims and tires at least remotely close to standard dimensions. It is hardly the Mazda factorys fault the Millies are fitted with 18 inch rims and sub 40 or whatever profile tyres. Possibly even with wrong offset which adds the strains conciderably. Don't blame the wheelbearings, blame the ricers.

 

Have you ever put a machine into long term storage, as in when a plant is shut down? If you have then you would know that the weight is often removed from the bearing surafces in order to prevent flat-spotting of the bearings and races... I do this quite often for our customers that are moving their machines, or are going into a year long process shut down.

 

 

Weight of the wheel would only matter if the suspension was hanging. Now the offset of an aftermarket wheel could add to the torque arm of the weight acting on the hub, therfore putting more strain on the bearings.

[ing-schu@online.no]

BHR, I was joking about wheelsizes mattering while stored. LOL. Both legs in there, kiddo.

 

MTS, of course I am aware of that on heavy machinery storage. Now we're discussing a 1500 car divided on 8 bearings. Get my drift?

[mts]

And sitting doing nothing... the pressure point still has extreme levels compared to rolling... and why then is that when you buy a car that has sat for a year or so they recommend a bearing change? Aside from the fact the grease is likely no longer any good... I would rather air on the side of caution then failure.