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Guys i read the treads and confused. We plan an LED upgrade on my bros 00 xedos 9. All gauges and dashboard will be replaced. My questions are:

 

-Any electrical problems? (cruise etc.)

-Can you adjust the brightness? If not which leds to go

-Do they light up when revv up? (voltage dependent brightness)

-Do they all fit physically?

 

I asked superlumination for more info about the LEDs. Once they reply i can estimate the electrical issues above.

 

He is thinking about green. They will be replaced in the dealer.

 

I cant think why the hell you have problems with cruise, LEDs drain less current than bulb, shouldnt cause any prob. What happens when you remove the problemmatic LED (stop or turn what ever) and dont put bulbs, does the cruise work? If it doesnt then the resistance affects cruise. Can you guys see any resistor inside them? It is stupid to just put LED without resistor.

 

For the brake/turn sginals:

If you put compansation resistors, how do you connect them? You cant match stock resistance by connecting serial (since LED resistance is already very high), you should put in parallel, but again this is %95 unnecessary. Not sure about the other %5 since dont know how the system is... Dont believe the rating on the resistor. Divide the power by 2, 3 for actual value :) I can hear the relays for turn signals. How are stop lights actuated? I would buy resistors from digikey.com .

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Guys i read the treads and confused. We plan an LED upgrade on my bros 00 xedos 9. All gauges and dashboard will be replaced. My questions are:

 

-Any electrical problems? (cruise etc.)

-Can you adjust the brightness? If not which leds to go

-Do they light up when revv up? (voltage dependent brightness)

-Do they all fit physically?

 

I asked superlumination for more info about the LEDs. Once they reply i can estimate the electrical issues above.

 

He is thinking about green. They will be replaced in the dealer.

 

I cant think why the hell you have problems with cruise, LEDs drain less current than bulb, shouldnt cause any prob. What happens when you remove the problemmatic LED (stop or turn what ever) and dont put bulbs, does the cruise work? If it doesnt then the resistance affects cruise. Can you guys see any resistor inside them? It is stupid to just put LED without resistor.

 

For the brake/turn sginals:

If you put compansation resistors, how do you connect them? You cant match stock resistance by connecting serial (since LED resistance is already very high), you should put in parallel, but again this is %95 unnecessary. Not sure about the other %5 since dont know how the system is... Dont believe the rating on the resistor. Divide the power by 2, 3 for actual value :) I can hear the relays for turn signals. How are stop lights actuated? I would buy resistors from digikey.com .

 

Ok, first of all if you get the right size then yes, they all fit, as for electrical problems its not the drawing, its the fact that there are resistors and switches, and fuses and blah blah blah throughout the car, that if they detect what they think is a bulb out or no bulb in place they trip a safety switch. Such as the hyper flash, people wonder why there lights are flashing fast, get out to check and would see 1 is burned out, same thing with the cruise, when your cruising the only way to cancel the cruise is to hit the brake or hit the cancel button, if the system detects that it "thinks" there are no brake lights and no brake system then the cruise would get stuck and ou couldn't brake, so it won't do it.

 

The LED cruise problem however was solved by me just a few days ago and there is a thread.

 

If you want to convert your gauges, brake lights, and taillights, reverse lights and license plates here is a complete list of what you will need for an 00

 

Gauges - 3 size 5-led matrix bulbs, 1 size #74 single led bulb

 

Turn signals - 2 size 1156 TOWER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! bulbs (high power is good to) You can use any color, amber or red, but I always thought hte led red from a clear housing was cool.

 

Brake lights (YOU MUST USE RED LEDS FOR BRAKES) Red leds are just as bright as white leds, but if you use white you will get a white spot in your brakes and an orange glow around it, whereas red will give you a deep blood red look. You will need 4 size 1157 TOWER!!!!! bulbs, high power not recommended.

 

Reverse lights - 2 size 1156 Towers (white) high power is fine but not needed.

 

license plate lights - 2 size 194 5-led, or SMT tower bulbs.

 

You will also need 2 25w 15ohm resistors/load eq's, one to be placed on each outer tail (please see "led cruise problem solved thread) It contains install instructions, This is what will keep your cruise working

 

And lastly, for the turn signals you MUST use some resistors. as well, you will need 2 6ohm 50w resistors/load eq's

 

All of the above can be found on superlumination.com

 

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Thanks this is a very good summary. How about the ones Anubis mentioned?

 

Good reasoning for cruise. How do you connect the resistors? parallel or series? Should be parallel. I have doubts about the reliability, those (ceramic probably) resistors change resistance with heat! May be dangerous be careful.. I guess the turn signal resistors are for blinking speed?

 

The company doesnt know the specs either. They just trade them from china i guess..

 

EU model has different gauges (never saw a EU car with gear on display). We will figure out how many we need. It has trip computer as well. I dont know why the hell they didnt put it to US one. You can see the digits in clock/temp display when illuminated.

 

 

 

 

Ok, first of all if you get the right size then yes, they all fit, as for electrical problems its not the drawing, its the fact that there are resistors and switches, and fuses and blah blah blah throughout the car, that if they detect what they think is a bulb out or no bulb in place they trip a safety switch. Such as the hyper flash, people wonder why there lights are flashing fast, get out to check and would see 1 is burned out, same thing with the cruise, when your cruising the only way to cancel the cruise is to hit the brake or hit the cancel button, if the system detects that it "thinks" there are no brake lights and no brake system then the cruise would get stuck and ou couldn't brake, so it won't do it.

 

The LED cruise problem however was solved by me just a few days ago and there is a thread.

 

If you want to convert your gauges, brake lights, and taillights, reverse lights and license plates here is a complete list of what you will need for an 00

 

Gauges - 3 size 5-led matrix bulbs, 1 size #74 single led bulb

 

Turn signals - 2 size 1156 TOWER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! bulbs (high power is good to) You can use any color, amber or red, but I always thought hte led red from a clear housing was cool.

 

Brake lights (YOU MUST USE RED LEDS FOR BRAKES) Red leds are just as bright as white leds, but if you use white you will get a white spot in your brakes and an orange glow around it, whereas red will give you a deep blood red look. You will need 4 size 1157 TOWER!!!!! bulbs, high power not recommended.

 

Reverse lights - 2 size 1156 Towers (white) high power is fine but not needed.

 

license plate lights - 2 size 194 5-led, or SMT tower bulbs.

 

You will also need 2 25w 15ohm resistors/load eq's, one to be placed on each outer tail (please see "led cruise problem solved thread) It contains install instructions, This is what will keep your cruise working

 

And lastly, for the turn signals you MUST use some resistors. as well, you will need 2 6ohm 50w resistors/load eq's

 

All of the above can be found on superlumination.com

 

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Saint, if you'll see my thread it shwos how you wire them, really simply, the postive on the postive, the negative on the negative and your done.

 

Also, yes they do create heat, but you msut use them with the turn signals but since its a flasher and you don't leave your turn signals on for hours it never gets to hot. As for the ones on the brakes, they actually do not get that hot, because you connect it to the High wire and not the low, you can be on the highway for hours and the only time the resistors will come into play is when you have your foot on the brake.

 

Addtionally, considering the heat that a halogen bulb puts out, and that the resistors run only about half of that, your perfectly fine.

 

As for the interior bulbs, I have not done the heated seats or ashtray, but I don't think the heated seats ones is possible. Not sure about the hvac, but I think there all #72, not sure about the amount, ask trout.

 

The dome lights all around are 31mm festoon I believe (the smallest ones) the more leds the better, high power is also cool. The doors take simply 194 bulbs, either the 5-led matrix or an SMT tower

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In recent news, Warden on Ebay sells a supposed high power 3-LED version of the #74 bulb, which I have ordered for trial. If all goes well it might be possiblet to have high power lights for gauges, though of course it would be much safer to dim them anyway. My main priority is avoiding the lacklustre illumination on the right hand side of the cluster where the 74 is.

 

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Goddamn it... those H3 LEDS are garbage. way too dim for anything practical other than saving electricity. Back to the 100W Streetglows...

 

 

o rly? ok then. i have a better idea :shifty: one that none of yall will like. BUT i reallyl dont care as they are called FOG lights. i shall use it then for inclement weather conditions such as FOG and not...HEY!!! I HAVE A PAIR OF LIGHTS UNDER ME CAR. :P

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I use my driving lights often... and they are driving lights if they are white... not fogs. Fogs are yellow, for increased visiblility in adverse conditions. Mind you I am looking into yellow bulbs for them... I actually would like to change them up to accept headlight bulbs... ;)

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