Miller Time Posted May 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2007 1. Attach timing gun 2. Jump TEN and GND pins in Diagnostic Box 3. Start car 4. Loosen two bolts holding cam sensor to front head 5. Aim gun at crankshaft pulley and twist cam sensor 6. When properly advanced, tighten cam bolts 7. Turn car off and remove key 8. Remove jumper wire and timing gun Miller, what gas were you running when you went for the etest? Running lower octane then whatever you had in there would cause the same emissions results as advancing the timing. Given the HCC and NOx counts, it seems the octane was too high. Lowering octane will lower HCC, and raise NOx. Go to Petro or Esso, fill up on REGULAR, and drive to the emissions place. Make sure the engine is at operating temp when they run the test. Hmm -- interesting. I was running the usual mid-grade so I could go to regular. As for the CEL, it has stayed off since the new blower went in. Longest period without at CEL in over a year. It makes me wonder if the cat is coming back to life (or was never dead. I've lost all faith in "professional" opinions on this car.). I was saying to MTS yesterday that it's strange to have the car run so well, yet blow much more blue smoke than the old blower put out. Pretty much any start during the day, warm or cold, will amount to at least a minute or more of blue. OK, so I'm going to clean the the plumbing I can easily get to and leave the manifolds, give it some good highway running (it sat for a week before the test but was warm for the test), with some regular and consider this timing. How much advance is needed and will they be able to tell (or care) it's been changed from spec? Also, MTS mentioned that no two bloody test centres post the same numbers. It's possible I could pass just by going up the road to where he got his done. What worries me is a second fail. Canadian Tire said the program mandates at least $450 worth of work in order to then get a "provisional pass" and be on my way. What a stupid fucking farce this is. If I could keep restesting without triggering a rising response from the MTO that would at least be sensible and I could try different things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted May 13, 2007 Report Share Posted May 13, 2007 Ren, you have a timing gun right? I would like to try this soon on mine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted May 13, 2007 Report Share Posted May 13, 2007 When this thread is done I HIGHLY recommend copying out some of those posts, including those pictures and adding to the tech section. Also miller, with the oil leak did you notice build up of oil on your alt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted May 13, 2007 Report Share Posted May 13, 2007 I indeed have a timing gun . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted May 13, 2007 Report Share Posted May 13, 2007 long weekend coming up.... you going away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted May 13, 2007 Report Share Posted May 13, 2007 A provisional test only means you can drive the car. You won't be able to sell it (if that's crossed your mind) with the provisional. I'm starting to wonder about the condition of your 'new' s/c. I would remove the intercoolers, especially the rear, clean them out and put them back. Then remove again a week or two later. I'm going to be in Michigan from Friday to Monday night. During the week work for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted May 13, 2007 Report Share Posted May 13, 2007 I am off to Montreal on Monday until Wednesday... but Thurs might be good... I will call you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted May 13, 2007 Report Share Posted May 13, 2007 Is it ever a good idea to clean out the intercoolers? I remember someone saying long ago that if your s/c is fine and you don't have an oil leak its best to just leave them be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted May 13, 2007 Report Share Posted May 13, 2007 Bah....maintenance never hurts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted May 14, 2007 Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 The only way a problem could arise is if you ruin the gaskets and need to replace them (I've always reused them), or you're an idiot/unlucky and have something get into the intake track and not notice. Otherwise, it's always better to clean them. The PCV and EGR vent oil and gases into the intake (that's why Miller's manifolds were so dirty), this crap coats the inside of the intercoolers and makes then even less useful than they already are. Oil holds heat, get rid of the oil and you cool the air better. Thursday works, both my sister an mom will be here looking for work on their cars. It will have to be after 2pm though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted May 14, 2007 Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 I will let you know... depending work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted May 14, 2007 Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 Why would there be oil in alternator? Seafoaming may work? When this thread is done I HIGHLY recommend copying out some of those posts, including those pictures and adding to the tech section. Also miller, with the oil leak did you notice build up of oil on your alt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted May 14, 2007 Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 On the alternator, not in. When the front valve cover starts to leak, it can leak down the front of the engine onto the alternator. And this is not uncommon. The engine I put in my mx6 definitely was doing this as the alternator was coated in oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted May 14, 2007 Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 hmm On the alternator, not in. When the front valve cover starts to leak, it can leak down the front of the engine onto the alternator. And this is not uncommon. The engine I put in my mx6 definitely was doing this as the alternator was coated in oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted May 14, 2007 Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 when working on my retrofit I noticed a very slight coating of oil on the alt, enough you can get some on your finger, but not in 1 place, like someone smeared it on there, I went checking, including around the intercooler piping and I can find no cause whatso ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted May 14, 2007 Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 The person that changed you oil could have spilled it as they were filling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted May 14, 2007 Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 hmm, possible. Going to have to check into this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latinopikachu Posted May 14, 2007 Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 imagine the Sainted Dealership doing wrong! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted May 14, 2007 Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 I don't think its from a spill, I would have noticed that right off the back, its just a very thin film, like the alt was sweating or something, but I can find no source or trace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miller Time Posted May 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 When this thread is done I HIGHLY recommend copying out some of those posts, including those pictures and adding to the tech section. Also miller, with the oil leak did you notice build up of oil on your alt? Exterior of the alternator was dry. For me the worst leaks were into the plug bores plus a little sweating off the rear bank. Gonna try to find time to open that access hatch again tonight. If it's dry in there it must either be leftover oil in the coolers and intakes or, as MTS has suggested to me, fubared valve guide seals. I simply can't imagine what kind of a shitty engine would have leaky valve seals at 120,000 km. Of course if it's oil inside the supercharger we know at least one bigtime ebay loser in the game of Spot the Crooked Seller... Oh, yeah -- CEL came on going to work today. Only highpoint to this fucking shitty week is MTS delivering a stockie right to my door to replace my bent rim so I can get off these freakin snow tires. Stellar, man -- and me without even a thankyou brew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted May 14, 2007 Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 I have NEVER heard/read about a K series engine with valve seal failure below 300kms. Not to say it's impossible, just that I'm on 5 forums and it's never come across. Clean the rear intercooler, and the pipe that it connects to at the bottom. If oil is going to pool somewhere, that's where it'll be first. And BHR, remove the front coils and look in the spark plug wells. Generally that's the first place oil seeps into when the vcg's need changing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted May 14, 2007 Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 plugs were changed about 9k ago and there was no oil on them at all, rear plugs had some slight grime film, but they were just worn out...damn champions. I'm really wondering where thisoil came from. I can find zero leaks, even ran my finger around in places I couldn't see and found nothing, but hte alt, and only the alt has a coat of oil on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miller Time Posted May 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 Alright -- this doesn't fill me with hope. This is both a before and after pic. I pulled the cover plate and found pretty much what you see below. Then I carefully mopped it all up til it was nice and shiny with no trace of oil, replaced the cover, ran the car for 30 seconds at 2000 rpm, pulled the cover again and found exactly what you see below. This makes no sense considering the apparent condition of the unit, right down to the shiny fasteners and blemish-free rotors. Now I wonder if the 5 years the guy says it was sitting in his garage dried out the seals, making them even more brittle than they already are. Is it possible the fucking thing self destructed almost as soon as I started it up at Ren's place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 I guess not on the plugs, outside of the coil boot. I had a slight oil on them. Dont know how much is much.. If there is too much oil there, it will start misfiring.. And BHR are you sure if it is oil or dust on the alternator? It is possible that the magnetic field of the alt can attract some dust on to it.. And my engine is fully covered with a thin layer of greasy mud.. plugs were changed about 9k ago and there was no oil on them at all, rear plugs had some slight grime film, but they were just worn out...damn champions. I'm really wondering where thisoil came from. I can find zero leaks, even ran my finger around in places I couldn't see and found nothing, but hte alt, and only the alt has a coat of oil on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 Miller, please tell me that thing carried a warranty/return policy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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