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Type Of Gas For Milly???


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and yet ren is always bitching about problems withthe millenia and having to fix something, where as I have had to fix nothing

 

You dont drive yours as much. And if it did breakdown you wouldnt say anything about it.

 

OH YES HE WOULD!!!!

 

He would bitch and whine like a little child.

 

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I wasn't the first to say that he wouldn't bitch, that was Super. But I agree and don't think BHR would say anything because everyone would know that his precious milly wasn't perfect. Not to mention the pinging he'll get from excess carbon build-up would prove me right...and he couldn't handle that.

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no, no carbon.

 

and I hardly consider 4 minutes, at start up excessive idling, 2 minutes of which I had no choice since cars had to be rearranged.

 

now in the winter time when I start it up I give it atleast a good 5-10 minutes before going anywhere, get some heat into the engine and make sure every fluid is ready to go

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I use my block heater half the year. I usually start driving after like half a minute idling, but am very gentle untill the engine is warm. If I have to remove snow and ice after outdoor parking (and no heater), I always start up the engine while doing it. Allows the seat heater to warm up and windows start deicing.

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You guys have it hard over there.

 

I think my latitude must be a southern hemisphere equivalent to ?Florida?

We've just gone through the worst part of winter and with the sub 10C days, I wish that I had seat heaters too, but after just a minute, the leather seems to warm up enough.

 

As for warming an engine - snow temperatures might have different rules, but I've learned that only old cars need any warming up and that letting a car warm by prolonged idling can actually be bad for it.

Eg: After 5 minutes of idling, you've got a lovely warm engine and you take off thinking everything is OK, but that transmission is still an ice queen and she's not going to play nicely.

 

I always use the first minute to drive gently and once the temp gauge lifts off the bottom I drive normally.

 

G.

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The reason people let their engines warm up (comfort aside) is that oil thickens (synthetic not nearly as bad) when cold. And when driving with thick cold oil there isn't enough volume of oil movement to properly lubricate all bearing surfaces. So there ends up being crankshaft - bearing contact (which isn't good). This makes it seem like warming up an engine is a good idea...not so. During idle oil pressure is at its lowest and as such the same damage is being caused because of lack of volume. The best one can do is park in the garage (yes, clean all that shit that you think you're going to use one day out), and if that's not an option, block warmer. Also, whn driving a cold engine, limit the rpm's. Even though the oil pressure gauge shows normal pressure, it does not show flow volume. So at higher rpms you've got pressure, but the cold oil resists flowing.

 

Short trips are especially bad for mazdas. The stupid enrichement program mazda employs causes the engines to run really rich during the warm-up phase. Really rich = premature cat failure, and also carbon build-up which will eventually lead to the NEED for premium gas.

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except I park in a heated garage, none the less, I still let it warm up a bit and idle. I do it for the engine, not for me. I can't ever remember a time when I idled any car until the inside was warm or cold. I mean hell, if its winter iv already got a coat on, why the hell should I burn gas letting it be warm unless I'm going to jump in in a t-shirt.

 

as always, I limit the rpms to about 2800 until the engine is at full operating temp, regardless of season

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To think there are people who recommend starting the engine and running to operating temperature a couple of times per week... nothing could be worse for it, as I found out the hard way with my Milly. Today, I would sooner walk than do a short trip in the Eunie.

 

Indeed. I remember saying the same lol, after someone said "rev the engine in the garage to pretend driving" or something. I avoid short trips whatsoever. If I start my engine, back her out of the garage, wash her, and start it to drive her back in, I can bet money on that the next time I start her she will be running on 4 or 5 only. Al least when it is cold outside. In my book that tells me the engine doesn't like my methods. It helps shutting her off while in drive though, to limit rpms.

 

So last night I pushed her out and gave her a wash, drove her back in and shut her off in drive. Today is waxing time.

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yes, I do start it out and rev it in the garage, BUT, I do this like once a month, certainly never a few times a week, and yes, it does help quite a bit, prevents the oil from becoming as acidity, protects cylinder walls, lubicates things, is REQUIRED for storage unless your taking out the plugs, spraying in whatever fluid its called and draining every other fluid in the car.

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well that would defeat the purpose of storage.

 

if it wasn't such a huge pain in the ass I would drain everything from the car, vacuum seal it, take out the plugs and spray in cylinder protector.

 

I start it and idle it, and yes, after about 5-10 minutes rev it, including holding revs around 1500-3k for up to a minute, to get all fluids moving etc and so forth.

 

if you research the matter, this is by and large the dominate method used by anyone storing a valable car wishing to keep it in "turn key" condition, everyone who has a 1910 rolls royce to mclaran owners.

 

my biggest concern for storage is the tires and flatspotting. I may soon invest in "tirecradles" but even I think there over priced

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