street3890 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 Ok, so where can i get one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
street3890 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 The last time i went my mech. did a test and there was no vac leaks. But i had code 1540 which i hear may be cause by a vac. leak. I think im just gonna try replacing all the hoses. Replacing the 3 solenoids and the vent, i have heard that also has fixed the problem...I just wanna drive it to it's full potential Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted March 31, 2008 Report Share Posted March 31, 2008 MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE COLOUR DIAGRAM PROVIDED ON THIS SITE. OR YOU WILL SPEND HOURS BITCHIN' AND THROWING TOOLS. EVEN MAZDA CANNOT GET THIS RIGHT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted March 31, 2008 Report Share Posted March 31, 2008 EVEN MAZDA CANNOT GET THIS RIGHT. Even the person that made the diagram has screwed it up before :hangs head in shame:. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted March 31, 2008 Report Share Posted March 31, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted March 31, 2008 Report Share Posted March 31, 2008 I originally came upo with this system for something on my Jeep, but it would seem to apply more here Go to office depot or where ever and buy a large bag of the small multi-colored rubber bands. When removing any vacuum line or hose just slip a band on, and a matching band to its connection. If you run out of colors do the same as wiring, 1red 1 white to 1red 1 white, with the number of combinations possible everything will be nicely color corrodinated and there wil be no issue of what goes where. Avoid stickers as they can fall off certain markers work, but rubber bands are the best I'v found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted March 31, 2008 Report Share Posted March 31, 2008 Pretty good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted March 31, 2008 Report Share Posted March 31, 2008 I used colored electrical tape when I did mine. Same idea, and it worked very well, especially if you decide to take some time away from it you won't forget what goes where. I also had a couple of small magnetic top jars and put the nuts and bolts in there when I removed them, so at the end you have all your parts and you know right away if you forgot to put something back. It's not a hard job if you go into it knowing what needs to be done and how to organize everything, it just takes a while. If you decide to try it yourself, I can tell you roughly the steps and tools I used to do mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
street3890 Posted March 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2008 I most likely will try to replace the hoses. And if i can find the solenoids and vents, maybe replace them as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazdaMomma Posted April 1, 2008 Report Share Posted April 1, 2008 I originally came upo with this system for something on my Jeep, but it would seem to apply more here Go to office depot or where ever and buy a large bag of the small multi-colored rubber bands. When removing any vacuum line or hose just slip a band on, and a matching band to its connection. If you run out of colors do the same as wiring, 1red 1 white to 1red 1 white, with the number of combinations possible everything will be nicely color corrodinated and there wil be no issue of what goes where. Avoid stickers as they can fall off certain markers work, but rubber bands are the best I'v found. I am impressed. An excellent idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted April 1, 2008 Report Share Posted April 1, 2008 Wow, he can think... But we all know he gots his elastics at Claire's.... the chick shop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazdaMomma Posted April 1, 2008 Report Share Posted April 1, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latinopikachu Posted April 2, 2008 Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 how funny if lat can install a few solenoid valves..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
street3890 Posted May 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 Well, i never did any of the things i said i was going to do...the problem still happens more and more. 4 times yesterday!!!! I Can't fucking find all those hoses, im sorry im not good with this shit. There's so much shit in the way. How did you change all those hoses, there's noway you got in there like that with all of that shit in the way!!! And if i wanna try the ohmmeter/multiplier where and how do i hook it up?!? And where exactly is the ABV vent?!? There are NO leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 Find the Charge Air Cooler Bypass Actuator, it is located next to the s/c door under the "Miller Cycle" cover. You can see what it looks like it in the diagram. It will have a single vacuum line out the back, trace it to the other end and you will find the solenoids you are looking for. From right to left when looking down at the engine you will find: The CAC Bypass Solenoid Valve ABV Solenoid Valve (Vent) Air Filter ABV Solenoid Valve (Vacuum) You will need a multimeter to measure the resistance (Ohms) across the solenoids. If you don't already have one, you can get a cheap one at walmart for $10-$15. You will need to select the ohms measurement which will have a symbol that looks like this: Now you will need to unplug one of the solenoids and put one end of the meter on one pin (on the solenoid not the wire), and one on the other pin - it doesn't matter which one. Write down the resistance and check to see if it is within the correct range (I think the values are in an earlier post on this topic) You may need to remove some things to get enough access to take the readings. Take out the battery and the battery tray,all you need is a 10mm socket, and it will give you more room to look around. A 10, 12 and 14mm socket can take appart a large portion of the engine. You might also need to remove the rear intercooler if it is in the way. I have a guide for this if you don't know how. You can also use either colored electrical tape or masking tape with numbers to label the electrical plugs on the solenoids in the back and pull those out of the way too if you find that you still don't have enough room. Hopefully this will get you started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
street3890 Posted May 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 Thanks, but im not sure how to remove that intercooler, and im not really sure how to locate all the hoses from that diagram lol and how to remove the solenoids themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
street3890 Posted May 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 the solenoids are located behind that big/thick pipe correct? How do i remove them? Iwas trying to trace some of the hoses, i believe i was able to find some of them, but in the diagram the abv (vent) is 3rd from the right, you said it's second? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
street3890 Posted May 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 [/img] Is that one of the solenoids? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
street3890 Posted May 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 I got my codes pulled, they read p1525 and p1540...would one of them be the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 With those two... you have a vacuum leak as earlier reported OR the ABV (vent) SOLENOID is bad. And yes the vacuum hoses are a nightmare NUT if you are patient and follow the advice that has been given you will conquer this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
street3890 Posted May 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 I don't have patience for this lol is that picture the vent?!? Do i need to remove anything to follow those hoses? And which hoses should i follow?!? cause there are so many... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 Street the picture tells nothing. You have the colored diagram right? you can easily find the 4 solenoids (one is filter as mentioned). You donot need to remove anything. I guess you can measure the resistance just by disconnecting it. There is enough room IIRC. They are hung on a metal, what you should do is to push the hanger from below the solenoid to the front and pull the solenoid up. I know its a pain if you dont know the mechanism but it is not very hard either. Look at the MAP solenoid, same thing for the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
street3890 Posted May 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 Yea i have the colored diagram, and like u said i don't know the mechanism lol im not so good with stuff like this, but ill try my best. I have remove them, how will i know they're bad, by testing with the multimeter? What should they read? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
street3890 Posted May 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 Are the solenoids located on the back of that long metal pipe that bends? Pics are appreciated lol and holy shit it's hard to take them out, i couldn't get one lol which one is the vent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 Multimeter should read 40ohm at most. If it is shot you will read thousands tough.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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