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Do you guys think front i/c was taken out before? The clamps are supposed to be underneath right? I wonder why would they work on the engine in a 30k-km milly.

 

Actually my brothers car had a similar story. The prev owner was an old man, a company owner or something. My bro was pushing him to sell the car to him. He told my bro he would sell the car anybody except him :) The car stayed in mazda dealer for more than a year. But since my bro is close friend with the guys in the dealer they kept the car out of sight, never washed it. It was a dirty forgotten car with a big price tag for more than a year. Nobody bought it. He could buy the car after the guy died.

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what a horrible thing to do to a millenia

 

when I was looking at my 2nd jeep I came across one like that, looked like a decent 96 v8 ZJ, got there and was exactly as described, except the radio was missing, it was on a dealersip lot with 3 semi flat tires, cob webs inside and out from sitting, infact after he jumped it the guy wouldn't let me test drive it because he was afaird it was going to run out of gas.

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Yes, it is green ( a light green...will try to get the code from...mmmmmmmm...really dunno!...Helppppp).

 

I bet your color code is 15X, named Mid green and found in the passenger door opening on a white label ;)

 

Indeed it is Oh Master! :)

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Do you guys think front i/c was taken out before? The clamps are supposed to be underneath right? I wonder why would they work on the engine in a 30k-km milly.

 

Actually my brothers car had a similar story. The prev owner was an old man, a company owner or something. My bro was pushing him to sell the car to him. He told my bro he would sell the car anybody except him :) The car stayed in mazda dealer for more than a year. But since my bro is close friend with the guys in the dealer they kept the car out of sight, never washed it. It was a dirty forgotten car with a big price tag for more than a year. Nobody bought it. He could buy the car after the guy died.

 

Dunno about the IC: as far as i know (by checking both service book and service history in Mazda database) the car had 3 oil changes (should have had 7, one per year) and had a small paint job in the rear fender. Only defects i find are from not being driven as often as it should be. The spare tyre and rim are in immaculate condition, that tyre was never used. I spent the day in a nearby city and every Merc , Audi or Beemer owners had to turn their heads . Amazing exclusivity i have!!!!!! :rockon:

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you don't have to drive alot, in the past 4 years iv only put 4500 miles on my car, and almost 1500 of that was mazdaworld meets related.

 

the key is to drive it gently up to operating temp, then drive some more, no short trips, change the oil, fuel stablizer, manage the tires etc.

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The Magnatec is fully synthetic according to the label. My current batch is from 2005. NB it used to be dino oil earlier. Wish it was availible in 5W-30 though, I got another oil than ordered. Maybe it is availible too, haven't checked. I'm sure it will work perfect in the Miller Cycle. Not too expensive either. It does keep the internals squeaky clean for sure.

 

Cuto, don't be afraid to drive your car regularly. Cars are built for that purpose and best taken care of that way. Things likely to act on sitting cars are above all brakes getting stuck. If sitting very long, it is bad for all moving parts including engine and tranny. But I guess your car has been driven on occasions.

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I use Castrol GTX 10W30

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Why swap to a lower quality at a certain milage?

 

Of course other brands than Castrol are availible here. But when I was recommended to swap to Castrol GTX 3 to limitate oil consumption in my 82 929, and it actually worked (pre 84 Mazda engines weared well but were prone to burn oil), I've used it ever since, more than 20 years. And I have never had any engine fail on me. My lawnmover is probably close to 30 years old and still running strong, on Castrol. My oldest engine was built in 1944, also runs on- guess what? I'm not saying it is the best oil, but good enough for me.

 

This is how clean the Magnatec keeps my engine: http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index.php...ic=2764&hl=

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Why swap to a lower quality at a certain milage?

 

Of course other brands than Castrol are availible here. But when I was recommended to swap to Castrol GTX 3 to limitate oil consumption in my 82 929, and it actually worked (pre 84 Mazda engines weared well but were prone to burn oil), I've used it ever since, more than 20 years. And I have never had any engine fail on me. My lawnmover is probably close to 30 years old and still running strong, on Castrol. My oldest engine was built in 1944, also runs on- guess what? I'm not saying it is the best oil, but good enough for me.

 

This is how clean the Magnatec keeps my engine: http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index.php...ic=2764&hl=

 

Just checked the oil the dealer was using: it's "Mazda's" Dexelia 5W30 and the changes are to be made every 10. 000 KM.

 

More on this Oil here http://www.oil-shop-uk.co.uk/acatalog/Dexelia.html

 

But i guess i'll make a change for magnatec. However Castrol site points me to Magnatec 5W30 (same thing Xedosman is using). But only if i use castrol european sites...in USA it points me to GTX 3 5W30.

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I'm sure the oil that has been used in your engine is fine. Thanks for confirming Magnatec is availible as 5W-30! That will be my choice for the next batch.

 

10000 km's is a sensible change interval, unless you have lots of short trip (sub 15km's) or city driving. Then I'd concider 5000 or 7500 km intervals. Or preferably avoiding such driving ;)

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xedos - so long as nothing is leaking there would be no reason to change, many companies say at 75k you should switch to a high mileage oil which I just don't buy, I go 150k then switch if needed. Works wonders on older high mileage jeeps, this is of course only the oil, everything else stick with syn, especially gear lube.

 

But since the S seems to have a VGC problem which I don't plan on experiancing unless I somewhere manage the funds for yet another millenia, I'll stick with mobil1 5w-30

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I don't think the S has a valvecover gasket problem. It is supposed to be popped off every 54k miles to verify and if necessary adjust valve clearance. And what oil you use has nothing to do with gasket seepage unless we're talking straight 50 which I hope you don't use.

 

I don't buy high milage oils hype, not to mention longlife oil hype. I'll just stick to the oil I've always used, and pour in some Omega 917 sealer treatment every once in a while. Took care of my slight bluesmoke on startup a couple of years ago, still good.

 

Sorry Cuto, off topic :whistling:

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not off topic, we want his new purchase to last the test of time.

 

xedos, according to ren and after some I'v test driven there seems to be a decent problem with atleast the seals, and for 500 dollars and a hell of alot of labor its not something I want to go trhough with. If it was my Jeep I wouldn't really mind, but so much has to come off to get to the VCG's that its a miracle it all goes back into place.

 

I don't believe 75k on a modern engine is high mileage, but I have had great success with high mileage oils in very high mileage cars.

 

On 1 of my jeeps it started to leak some oil from an unknown location using conventional 10w-30, about 4-5 drops when hot and parked, going through maybe a quart between oil changes. Switched to valvoline conventional high mileage oil, within a week it started leaking, stopped burning/losing oil and just ran better.

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I don't think the S has a valvecover gasket problem. It is supposed to be popped off every 54k miles to verify and if necessary adjust valve clearance. And what oil you use has nothing to do with gasket seepage unless we're talking straight 50 which I hope you don't use.

 

I don't buy high milage oils hype, not to mention longlife oil hype. I'll just stick to the oil I've always used, and pour in some Omega 917 sealer treatment every once in a while. Took care of my slight bluesmoke on startup a couple of years ago, still good.

 

Sorry Cuto, off topic :whistling:

 

Off topic???? Whereee? Where? Ok...city consumption : 12.5 L /100 Km...guess thats not too bad uh? :noidea:

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Not bad at all, but you can expect downwards 8,0 L/100 km (30 mpg) during easy, not too fast highway driving. Say around 100 Km/h.

 

My best shot in the 2,5 is 7,1 L/100 km (33,1 mpg) during a whole tankfill, mind you fully loaded, try to beat that with your supposedly more fueleffective Miller Cycle ;)

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I don't think the S has a valvecover gasket problem. It is supposed to be popped off every 54k miles to verify and if necessary adjust valve clearance. And what oil you use has nothing to do with gasket seepage unless we're talking straight 50 which I hope you don't use.

 

I don't buy high milage oils hype, not to mention longlife oil hype. I'll just stick to the oil I've always used, and pour in some Omega 917 sealer treatment every once in a while. Took care of my slight bluesmoke on startup a couple of years ago, still good.

 

Sorry Cuto, off topic :whistling:

 

Off topic???? Whereee? Where? Ok...city consumption : 12.5 L /100 Km...guess thats not too bad uh? :noidea:

 

It should be hot in there? In a hot climate and not climbs its not too good. The last time i got was 19.5mpg (12L/100km) with some highway, mostly city and lots of climbs and red light stops (from 100km/hr).. It was 3 tank average. You should clean the engine and shift to full sythetic. Mazda is idiot in recommending regular oil. Supercharged cars use synthetic.

 

My oil pan has some leak from one corner after i shifted to synthetic, no VCG leaks and its holding the oil better after the second synthetic oil change. (Cuto my car is in 180,000 kms)

 

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not off topic, we want his new purchase to last the test of time.

 

xedos, according to ren and after some I'v test driven there seems to be a decent problem with atleast the seals, and for 500 dollars and a hell of alot of labor its not something I want to go trhough with. If it was my Jeep I wouldn't really mind, but so much has to come off to get to the VCG's that its a miracle it all goes back into place.

 

I don't believe 75k on a modern engine is high mileage, but I have had great success with high mileage oils in very high mileage cars.

 

On 1 of my jeeps it started to leak some oil from an unknown location using conventional 10w-30, about 4-5 drops when hot and parked, going through maybe a quart between oil changes. Switched to valvoline conventional high mileage oil, within a week it started leaking, stopped burning/losing oil and just ran better.

 

My point regarding the gaskets is that they usually keep reasonably tight untill they are supposed to be taken off due to scheduled maintenance. Owners choosing to neglect this might experience leaks as well as other issues. Call it a calculated risk, as I understand the need of clearance adjustment usually isn't very big. Of course too big clearance will be audible, it is the ones running too tight that can result in burned valves and MAJOR work.

 

My KL (2,5) gaskets did not leak enough to cause any problems at all at close to 100k miles. View pics here. The KJ (2,3)design is very similar part form a loose halfsircle for each camgroove on the driver side of the engine, in favour of a similar shape in the cover on the KL. These are known to cause slight leaks but this leak is in a place where it is only a cosmetic issue unless pools become evident.

 

I believe high milage oils have additives to soften seals, which means adding Omega 917 will give the same result. In older engines beginning to burn oil it might be a good idea to swap to a higher viscosity to decrease consumption, but this isn't what I'd opt for in our V6 engines. They are supposed to run on either 10W-30 or 5W-30, end of story.

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I do not believe in swapping to higher weight oils unless the car is on its death bed and you just need it to last a few months. I do not know of anyone who as adjusted the valves on an S, maybe ren or mts but don't remember it being exactly done, then again very few people I know actually get this done. As of right now I'm at 56k, no VCG leaks and id perfer to keep it that way...granted if I had gotton my first jeep much earlier I would only have around 35k on the millenia.

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I don't think the S has a valvecover gasket problem. It is supposed to be popped off every 54k miles to verify and if necessary adjust valve clearance. And what oil you use has nothing to do with gasket seepage unless we're talking straight 50 which I hope you don't use.

 

I don't buy high milage oils hype, not to mention longlife oil hype. I'll just stick to the oil I've always used, and pour in some Omega 917 sealer treatment every once in a while. Took care of my slight bluesmoke on startup a couple of years ago, still good.

 

Sorry Cuto, off topic :whistling:

 

Off topic???? Whereee? Where? Ok...city consumption : 12.5 L /100 Km...guess thats not too bad uh? :noidea:

 

It should be hot in there? In a hot climate and not climbs its not too good. The last time i got was 19.5mpg (12L/100km) with some highway, mostly city and lots of climbs and red light stops (from 100km/hr).. It was 3 tank average. You should clean the engine and shift to full sythetic. Mazda is idiot in recommending regular oil. Supercharged cars use synthetic.

 

My oil pan has some leak from one corner after i shifted to synthetic, no VCG leaks and its holding the oil better after the second synthetic oil change. (Cuto my car is in 180,000 kms)

 

Its not hot at all, around 23º Celsius. Mind that the 12,5 L /100 km was achieved only in city driving, with 20 mins or so of rush hour traffic in between. Also i think the oil mazda used is the same they use on Mazda 6. Dexelia 5W30 is synthetic.

 

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